In the previous article, we learned about what the Banbi was. During the Tang Dynasty, there were close economic exchanges between China and countries around the world. This open – minded culture not only gave rise to the Banbi style but also led to the emergence of another fashion trend – women dressing in men’s clothing, specifically the Hu clothing.

I. What is Hufu

Tang Dynasty women were bold in their pursuit of fashion, and there was a craze for wearing Hufu (胡服). The popularity of Hu clothing brought a brand – new look to traditional Han Chinese attire. At that time, Hu clothing mainly consisted of straight – tube long robes with turned – up collars, front – opening styles, and narrow sleeves, or round – collared narrow – sleeved long shirts. Women would wear long trousers underneath, paired with boots, and cinch their waists with leather belts. On the belts, they could hang daily tools such as sabers, sharpening stones, needle cases, and flint pouches. This style was influenced by the clothing culture of nomadic ethnic groups. The figures in the mural of Princess Fangling’s Tomb (房龄大长公主墓壁画) in the following picture are wearing Hu clothing.

Hufu was actually a general term used by the Han people in ancient China to refer to the clothing worn by the Hu people from the western and northern ethnic groups. It was quite different from the loose – fitting and wide – belted Han clothing in the Central Plains region at that time. Later, it also generally referred to the clothing of foreign ethnic groups other than the Han people. Hu clothing usually included close – fitting short garments, long trousers, and leather boots, with a tight – fitting body.

Hufu was popular during the Kaiyuan and Tianbao periods of the Tang Dynasty. Women were fond of wearing Hu clothing while riding horses. Its features included turned – up collars, front – opening styles, and narrow sleeves. There are numerous depictions of this in the murals of tombs in Shaanxi and other places. Women wearing this kind of clothing can also be seen in the silk paintings unearthed from Astana in Turpan, Xinjiang.

There are also women in Tang – Dynasty paintings wearing Hufu. The figure on this mural is a dancing girl. The dancing girl has a plump face, a floral pattern painted on her forehead, and a demure expression. She is dressed in a Hu – style garment with a turned – up collar and sleeves adorned with flower cluster pattern. This image reflects the contemporary society’s aesthetic standards for female images and the popular fashion of women’s clothing at that time. It represents the highest level of paintings of ladies from the late early Tang Dynasty to the early heyday of the Tang Dynasty.

II. Hufu for Men and Women

• Men’s Hufu

The people of the Tang Dynasty were fond of Hu – style fashions. Men wearing Hufu and various Hu hats. Hu hats were generally made of brocade. They had tall crowns with slightly pointed tops, and were decorated with either elaborate floral patterns, precious stones and pearls, or fur trimmings. Most of these styles can find examples in archaeological materials.

For instance, in the Chinese animated film Chang’an, there are scenes where Li Bai is dressed in Hufu.

• Women’s Hufu

The Hu – style clothing of Tang – Dynasty women was  different from that of men. Instead, it was roughly similar to the outfits of male Hu figurines in the Tang Dynasty. However, the Hufu and hats worn by women were evidently modified to better suit female aesthetic preferences. In terms of color and decoration, they were more vivid, colorful, and elaborately adorned compared to men’s.

It’s worth noting that during the Wu Zhou period, many female officials were appointed to participate in political affairs, which significantly elevated the status of women. As a result, it became a popular trend for women to dress in men’s clothing. Meanwhile, a large number of merchants from the Western Regions and Central Asia were active in Luoyang. Imitating the Hu people’s clothing style, wearing Hu hats and Hufu became a prevailing fashion. Among the female figurines unearthed from the Wu Zhou period in Luoyang, various female images in Hufu can be seen.

• Distinctive Differences

In fact, there were no obvious differences in the tailoring of Hufu for men and women. Comparatively, women’s clothing had more colors and decorative patterns.

III. Differences between Hu Clothing and Han Clothing

1. Convenience in Movement

Hufu was designed for easy movement, especially for horse – riding and archery. With its tight – fitting and narrow sleeves, long trousers, and leather boots, it exuded a sense of neatness and efficiency. In contrast, Hanfu featured large robes with wide sleeves, which gave an elegant and flowing look. While suitable for daily life at home or in court, it was cumbersome for activities like horse – riding and warfare.

2. Adaptability to Environment

Hufu was practical and water – resistant, well – adapted to the natural environment and cold climate in the north. In the frigid regions of northern China, the narrow – sleeved and narrow – legged design, along with leather boots, of Hufu provided excellent insulation.

3. Gender – Neutrality

Hufu blurred the gender differences and was commonly worn by both men and women. It was quite common for women in ethnic minority groups to wear men’s clothing.

4. Aesthetic Style

Hufu conveyed an image of beauty through its neat and concise style. Comprising a long robe with small sleeves, long trousers, and a decorated belt (diesiedai), and often accompanied by a bow, arrow, and saber, Hufu presented a simple yet efficient aesthetic.

Summary

Due to the powerful national strength and open – minded society of the Tang Dynasty, people from Western – Region ethnic minorities, Persia, and other foreign countries flocked to Chang’an, the capital of the Tang Dynasty. The cultures they brought also influenced Tang culture. The Tang Dynasty was inclusive, not only accepting but actively absorbing foreign cultures. Hufu, in fact, incorporated elements from the clothing of Western – Region ethnic minorities, Central Asian countries, and even Persia. Besides clothing, the Tang people also adopted Hu – style makeup, music, and were fond of Hu – style dancers. After learning about this, one can’t help but admire the all – inclusive nature of the great Tang Dynasty.✨