What Exactly Was in Ancient Chinese Women’s Facial Makeup?

Ⅰ. Huadian/Huazi (Flower Decals)
Origin of Huadian
“Huadian (花钿)”, also known as “huazi (花子)”, is a small and delicate adornment on the forehead. It originated during the Wei, Jin, and Southern and Northern Dynasties and developed into a popular makeup style for women in the Tang Dynasty.
Regarding its origin, it is said that during the Southern and Northern Dynasties, Princess Shouyang (寿阳) took a rest outside the courtyard. A plum blossom fell on her forehead and remained there for three days before it was washed off. Due to its unexpectedly charming and delicate look, the palace maids began to imitate this style.

Styles of Huadian


Ⅱ. Xiehong (Slanting Red)
Origin of Xiehong
“Xiehong (斜红)” is a type of facial decoration on the cheeks. Usually in the shape of a red crescent moon, it gradually evolved into various patterns due to the bold and open fashion in the Tang Dynasty.
As for its origin, it is rumored that during the Three Kingdoms period, a palace maid named Xue Yela (薛夜来) in the palace of Emperor Wen of Wei, Cao Pi, accidentally hit her head on a screen, leaving two scars on her cheeks. However, Emperor Wen still doted on her as before. So, other palace maids imitated her and used rouge to draw blood – like marks on their faces, calling it “Dawn Rosy Makeup (晓霞妆)”. Later, it gradually developed into “xiehong”.

Styles of Xiehong


Ⅲ. Mianye (Facial Dimples Adornment)
Origin of Mianye
“Mianye” (面靥) is an adornment applied to the dimples on the cheeks.
It is usually dotted with rouge. As the fashion of the times changed, the forms of “mianye” became more diverse, including patterns of flowers, birds, and beasts. Sometimes, these patterns were even pasted all over the face.
Regarding its origin, initially, it was not for decoration but a special mark in the imperial palace. When a palace maid was having her period and couldn’t serve the emperor, she just needed to dot two small spots on her face. Later, it was highly sought after by civilian women and gradually became a form of adornment.



Ⅳ. Ehuang (Forehead Yellow)
Origin of Ehuang
“Ehuang” (额黄) is one of the facial adornments.One view holds that this makeup method originated from the introduction of Buddhism. During the Northern and Southern Dynasties, Buddhism was widely popular. There were many golden – bodied Buddha statues enshrined in temples. Inspired by the golden bodies of the Buddha statues and out of their respect for Buddhism, women began to apply a similar method to paint their foreheads. Later, it gradually evolved into a makeup technique. “Ehuang” involves applying yellow pigment to the forehead and is a form of facial adornment for ancient Chinese women.


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