When it comes to veils, do you think of a woman’s white wedding veil? In fact, in ancient China, the veiled look was also commonly used in daily life scenes.

Ⅰ. Gaitou & Weimao

This kind of “head veil” was called “gaitou (盖头)” in the Song Dynasty. The Song Dynasty followed the systems of the Tang Dynasty, including its clothing and transportation regulations. According to Zhou Hui’s Qingbo Magazine (周煇, 《清波杂志》), “Scholars and officials wore cool shirts on horseback. When women walked on the main streets, they used a square piece of purple silk to cover half of their bodies. Commonly, it was called ‘gaitou’, which originated from the ‘weimao (帷帽)’ headgear of Tang – Dynasty women.” From this, we can draw a conclusion:

The “gaitou” headgear worn by women in the Song Dynasty was derived from the “weimao” headgear of women in the Tang Dynasty.

Ⅱ. Difference in Gaitou & Weimao

• Differences in Components

The “gaitou” and “weimao” are actually different. According to Mr. Shen Congwen, “Those with a stiff – brimmed hat and a net curtain hanging down belong to the ‘weimao’.” Simply put, as shown in the picture above, the “weimao” is a combination of a broad – brimmed hat and a net curtain. Commonly, the broad – brimmed hat is nearly black.

The “gaitou”, on the other hand, is much simpler. It is a “square piece of purple silk” that can cover half of the body. In other words, it’s just a square piece of cloth. Women could directly drape it over their heads and then go out. Mr. Shen Congwen (沈从文) also confirmed that the “gaitou” was indeed a commonly – used head accessory popular among women in the Song Dynasty.

Gao Cheng (高承) also mentioned in Origins of Things and Events (《事物纪原》): “After the Yonghui (永徽) period, the weimao was used, and later, a black silk cloth, five chi square, was worn. It was also called futou, and now it is known as gaitou.” In the Song Dynasty, one chi was approximately 31.68 centimeters in modern measurement. A cloth five chi square would be around 158.4 centimeters. When placed over the head, it would reach approximately the position of the lower back.

• Differences in Contexts

Interestingly, although the Song Dynasty adopted the systems of the Tang Dynasty, the contexts of using these head – wears were different. If Tang – Dynasty women used the weimao to break free from feudal restrictions and travel freely, then against the backdrop of Song – Ming Neo – Confucianism, the gaitou worn by Song – Dynasty women was an important head – dress for going out, in compliance with the rules of etiquette and moral teachings.

There were many such rules and restrictions imposed by the feudal code of ethics. As recorded in Sima Guang’s Domestic Rites and Etiquettes (《居家杂仪》), “If a woman has to go out for some reason, she must cover her face (with a gaitou). Men should carry a candle when walking at night. Male servants should not enter the inner gate unless there are repairs to be done or in case of an emergency. If a male servant enters the inner gate, women must avoid him. If they can’t avoid, they must cover their faces with their sleeves.”

Judging from the pictures, there are mainly two ways to wear the gaitou. One is to tie it at the back – side of the head without letting it spread out. The other is to simply drape it and let it hang loose.

Ⅲ. Situations

In the Song Dynasty, the gaitou was mainly used in situations such as covering the face when going out, weddings, and funerals. As its usage scope gradually expanded, it became a common form in weddings and funerals. However, its color, material, and detailed design would vary according to different occasions, and they should not be used interchangeably. For example, according to Mr. Gao Chunming’s speculation (高春明), the gaitou used in weddings should be made of red silk. While in funerals, it was made of plain, coarse cloth.

During the Ming Dynasty, especially in the late Ming period, the fujin (幅巾, a kind of headcloth) was popular and often used by women dressing as men. The inheritance relationship between the fujin, the gaitou, and the Hu-style hood needs further study. Since the fujin was mainly used by men, it might be more closely related to the futou (幞头). Or perhaps it’s just a difference in name. It’s speculated that women wore the gaitou while men wore the fujin. In daily life, it’s unknown whether women still followed the Song – Dynasty custom of wearing the gaitou.

However, this kind of gaitou is still seen in local wedding and funeral customs today. But as a head – covering for daily outings, it rarely appears in our lives (except for taking pictures). In terms of its significance, the gaitou creates a strong sense of atmosphere.

In terms of practicality, veils have been used in daily life since ancient times. Even today, head veils can be used for decoration and sun protection. When it’s cold, they can be used as shawls to keep out the wind. They’re a stylish and useful addition to our outfits.

Liu Yong’s line “Her fair complexion and reddish – tinted brows, now and then revealed as she gently lifts the bridal veil. ” It still sounds quite romantic, doesn’t it?