The recently popular TV drama Palm (《掌心》) has garnered significant attention, especially for Chen Jin’
s portrayal of the “Sage,” a character inspired by Wu Zetian. Unlike traditional depictions, she wears minimal makeup and simple attire throughout the show. Many viewers have commented that a woman as powerful as an emperor has no need for concerns over her appearance.

Ⅰ. Various Depictions of Wu Zetian

In past historical dramas, Wu Zetian has often been portrayed as a noble and stunning figure. Actresses such as Liu Xiaoqing, Gui Yalei, Lü Zhong, Carina Lau, and Fan Bingbing have all played the iconic role, showcasing different interpretations. Some wore elaborate hairstyles adorned with luxurious hairpins, perfectly blending feminine beauty with imperial authority. Others, like Chen Jin, opted for a more understated approach—dressed in a round-collared robe with a futou (幞头, a traditional headpiece), exuding an aura of quiet yet undeniable power.

Wu Zetian was also a woman who deeply valued beauty. In Palace of Desire (大明宫词), there is even a scene where she looks at her daughter, Princess Taiping, and remarks, “She’s far from how beautiful I was in my youth.”

Historically, Wu Zetian’s appearance was often described with the phrase “square forehead and broad jaw” (方额广颐). According to The New Book of Tang (《新唐书·诸帝公主传》), it was recorded: “The princess Taiping had a square forehead and broad jaw, and was highly strategic in nature. The empress Wu Zetian often said, ‘She resembles me.’” This description suggests a high forehead and wide cheeks. In extreme cases, the hairline at the temples was even shaped into sharp angles, creating a distinctive look. Interestingly, this facial structure somewhat resembles what we now call a “square-round face.”

Ⅱ. Wu Zetian’s Imperial Attire

Wu Zetian’s image has always been somewhat of a mystery. Most depictions of her in later generations follow the styles shown in the right image—wearing a cross-collared or round-collared robe, with the latter being a signature style of the Tang dynasty. She is often portrayed wearing a fangxin quling (方心曲领, a ceremonial collar) and a di guan (翟冠, a crown adorned with pheasant feathers). Meanwhile, in the left image, The Portrait of Empress Wu’s Entourage (《武后从行图》), she is shown in a yishang-style ceremonial robe and a hu mao (胡帽, a hat of nomadic origin that was popular in the Tang dynasty during periods of cultural exchange). However, since the di guan was traditionally worn by imperial consorts and the hu mao was not considered formal attire, these representations may not fully reflect her actual imperial wardrobe. Additionally, historical depictions of past figures often incorporated contemporary fashion elements, leading to some discrepancies.  

The most widely accepted depiction of Wu Zetian’s formal imperial attire is likely based on Yan Liben’s(阎立本) Portraits of Successive Emperors (历代帝王像), which reflects Tang dynasty conventions. As an emperor, she would have worn the mianfu (冕服, imperial ceremonial robe) along with a mian guan (冕冠, an emperor’s ceremonial crown). However, historical dramas have rarely recreated this full attire, often featuring the crown but omitting the proper robe. That said, the mianfu was reserved for very specific occasions—such as the heavenly sacrifice ceremony (郊祭, held once every three years), grand ancestral rites (明堂大祀, twice every three years), the New Year’s Day court assembly (annually), and rare events like assuming an honorific title or conferring titles upon the empress or crown prince. Consequently, even in Wu Zetian’s lifetime, this attire was only worn a handful of times.

Wu Zetian’s appearance can be understood in different stages of her life. As a young woman, she was known for her love of beauty and even maintained a strict skincare routine. Some of her beauty formulas were recorded and passed down among the people. However, after ascending the throne, she was already in her later years. At this stage, rather than relying on youthful beauty, she commanded authority through sheer personal charisma and presence. This is why many viewers believe that actresses like Chen Jin and Lü Zhong best captured Wu Zetian’s image—exuding an effortless, regal presence that radiates power without the need for elaborate styling.

Ⅲ. Wu Zetian’s Everyday Attire

So what did Wu Zetian wear in her daily life? During her reign, women’s fashion embraced independence and confidence, allowing them to dress for themselves rather than for others. High-styled hairpieces (假发) were popular to create towering hairstyles, bold and striking makeup became fashionable, and floral forehead ornaments (花钿) were a signature detail that expressed individuality. Clothing styles were also exquisite—particularly low-cut necklines, fan-shaped collars, and striped skirts with alternating narrow bands of color, which created a flowing, elegant effect as women moved.

She also had the option of wearing simpler attire, such as a round-collared robe paired with a hair crown or a futou (幞头). Another reference for her everyday look could be the female official attire from the Wu Zhou period, as seen in historical depictions. For formal occasions, a round-collared robe embroidered with dragon motifs would have been a suitable choice.  

During this period, beizi (褙子) and banbi (半臂) were also commonly worn, often made from richly woven brocade fabrics. For example, in Liu Shishi’s portrayal of Ye Ping’an, her sleeveless low-necked vest and half-sleeves are classic styles frequently seen in historical dramas, including the recent series Palm (掌心).  

Additionally, pibo (披帛) became wider and were draped loosely over the shoulders, much like modern-day scarves. This era marked a shift in women’s fashion—moving away from delicate, reserved aesthetics to embrace strength, confidence, and poise like never before.

Everyone has their own vision of Wu Zetian. Which portrayal do you think best represents her? Feel free to share your thoughts in the comments!