The period drama Like Brocade (似锦) has been released. Jing Tian‘s sleeveless outfits in it showcase the charm of traditional clothing culture. Netizens say, “It’s been ages since we last saw a woman wearing sleeveless clothes in a period drama.”

Ⅰ. What Is Bijia?

The sleeveless garment she’s wearing is an ancient style known as a “vest” or “bijia (比甲)” in Chinese. It mostly features a front-opening design. Usually, this kind of sleeveless piece is worn over other clothes. It’s a sleeveless, front-fastening style with slits on both sides that reaches below the knees. Originating from the Song Dynasty, it became popular during the Yuan and Ming Dynasties. Generally, it extends to the hips or knees, and some are even longer, leaving less than a foot from the ground.

In the tomb of Huang Sheng (黄昇) from the Southern Song Dynasty, at least dozens of Song-style Hanfu pieces that can be paired together were unearthed. These include sleeveless vests, long and short shirts, two-piece skirts, wraparound garments, trousers, pizis (帔子, a kind of shawl), and bags. The sleeveless garment that Jing Tian wore in the drama is exactly this type.​

Ⅱ. Perfect Match for Summer

This kind of sleeveless vest is extremely suitable for summer wear. Its fabric is extremely light, and it’s much more comfortable and breathable than most of our modern clothes, so it feels a lot “cooler”. Among them, there’s a dark-colored peony-patterned silk gauze vest. It’s 70 centimeters long, 44 centimeters wide at the waist, 27.5 centimeters wide at the cuffs, and the collar edge is 2.1 centimeters wide. It probably used about 1.3 square meters of material and weighs only 16.7 grams. What does 16.7 grams mean? One jin is equal to 500 grams, and one liang is equal to 50 grams. That means this piece of clothing weighs less than half a liang. You can fit two such silk gauze vests in a matchbox. It’s really astonishing. However, when it comes to the lightest material used, the plain silk gauze robe from the Mawangdui Tomb is still the lightest in history. So, in ancient times, people really achieved “physical cooling” in summer.

The “vest” was a style beloved by both ancient ladies and working people. Generally, it was longer than the waist, and its actual length could vary. When going out for an outing, socializing, or working, it was typically worn over a beizi (褙子, a kind of outer garment). Even though two layers were worn, it’s evident that the ancient fabrics were incredibly light and thin. The almost transparent texture in the left picture above shows that this kind of outfit was very comfortable for summer.​

Ⅲ. What to Pay Attention to in Dressing

However, when sitting at home to enjoy the cool and not going out, it could be worn alone. For example, in the Ming Dynasty, the vest was often called a “gua (褂)” or “bijia (比甲)”. At this time, the vest could refer to various sleeveless garments with different collar styles. When at home, if a woman wasn’t wearing a chest-wrap and considering the light fabric, it was very easy to have what we would now call a “wardrobe malfunction”. No wonder netizens would sigh: No wonder men from outside were not allowed into the inner quarters in the old days.​

When paired with a chest-wrap, a hint of color would show through the light outer fabric, adding some personal dressing taste (here, a picture of a long-sleeved front-opening stand-collar shirt is used as an example). Interestingly, red was a common color for inner wear in the Ming Dynasty. It not only created a color contrast with the outer garment but was also very bright, making people feel both elegant and energetic. It was a rather interesting way of dressing.

Even in modern times, this kind of sleeveless garment remains quite fashionable. It can be worn in a way similar to modern sleeveless outerwear. You can wear it open or layer it. The mid – long style can be accessorized with a belt. You can pair it with a camisole or a shirt inside, and either trousers or a skirt at the bottom. This allows for a seamless transition from traditional to modern fashion.​

Summary

When it comes to color selection, we can adjust it according to daily needs. If you choose a solid color, it’s perfect for daily life and going out. Colors like black, white, or light shades are more suitable for commuting and formal occasions, and they are also more versatile in modern outfits. Have you got the hang of it?