In the costume TV drama The Palm (《掌心》), the eyebrow shapes of the two characters played by Chen Jin and Xu Jiao are quite special, exuding an indescribable sense of dominance. When you take a closer look, you’ll notice that the ends of eyebrows for regular female characters usually slope downward or are straight, but theirs are lifted upward!

Ⅰ. Upturned Eyebrows – Hanyan Eyebrows

There is an eyebrow shape that is different from traditional ones where the ends are either level or naturally droop. Instead, its ends are raised high. This is an eyebrow shape that was popular from the early Tang Dynasty to the Wu Zhou period. It’s called Hanyan (涵烟眉) Eyebrows, and in some places, it’s also known as “Floating Cloud Eyebrows”. When you look closely, the beginning of the eyebrow is rather pointed, and at the end, the hairs are distinctively separated, which is extremely delicate. Some versions have a lifted eyebrow peak and are drawn narrower, and this is also called “Distant Mountain Eyebrows”. It has to be said that our ancestors really knew how to create an eyebrow shape that conveys the “power of a strong female protagonist”!

In the poem “Scenery Words” (《风光词》) by the Jiao Nv (蛟女) from the middle of Hunan in the Tang Dynasty, it reads: “The drunken, hazy light spreads far and wide, and the misty Hanyan Eyebrows bewilder for miles.” This is exactly about this eyebrow shape. It’s as light and hazy as misty clouds, or like a floating wisp of cloud. Its most prominent feature is that the end of the eyebrow curves upward, adding a bit of the charm of independence and confidence.

In the poem “Scenery Words” (《风光词》) by the Jiao Nv (蛟女) from the middle of Hunan in the Tang Dynasty, it reads: “The drunken, hazy light spreads far and wide, and the misty Hanyan Eyebrows bewilder for miles.” This is exactly about this eyebrow shape. It’s as light and hazy as misty clouds, or like a floating wisp of cloud. Its most prominent feature is that the end of the eyebrow curves upward, adding a bit of the charm of independence and confidence.

This eyebrow shape can be seen in murals and paintings from the early Tang Dynasty to the Wu Zhou period. Overall, it reflects the confident and open demeanor of women. Compared to the Juan Yan (罥烟) Eyebrows, it is slightly thicker and more energetic, with distinct features that are hard to forget. After being adapted for film and television dramas, it is not as bold and forceful; instead, it has an added touch of softness and grace. In literary works, the Juan Yan Eyebrows are often used to describe the eyebrows of female characters, giving a sense of softness and lightness.

Ⅱ. The Beauty of the Wu Zhou Period

Makeup truly reflects the “attitude” of an era. As we can observe in the murals from the early Tang Dynasty to the Wu Zhou (武周) period, the closer it gets to the Wu Zhou era, the more female characters sport these broad and thick eyebrows, paired with neat and tall hair buns and open – collared outfits. This confident and flamboyant makeup and dressing style was the mainstream of the dressing style during this period, and it also demonstrated a significant elevation in the status of women throughout history. Some women who like this makeup style jokingly say, “The more upward – slanted the eyebrows, the more stable the status.” Moreover, both the murals of the Wu Zhou period and the restored Wu Zhou – style looks by Hanfu enthusiasts exude a kind of female beauty full of vitality and tenacity. Women in the Wu Zhou period were confident and dared to pursue and express their beauty. This can be regarded as a mutual embrace between the era and female aesthetics.

The thicker version is called “Hanyan (涵烟)”, while the one as fine as a distant mountain is named “Yuanshan (远山)” (in some cases, the end of the Yuanshan eyebrow doesn’t have a distinct upward tilt).

In many film and television works, we’ve noticed that quite a few memorable characters have adopted makeup looks with eyebrows that tilt upward at the ends. This is a reference to the popular eyebrow shapes of Yuanshan and Hanyan. Compared with some more conventional and regular traditional eyebrow shapes, these eyebrows make a person’s profile look more energetic and domineering, and they appropriately fill in some of the empty space on the sides near the temples. For example, Zhang Yuxin in The Lost Symbol of the Qingming Festival used a similar eyebrow shape, which perfectly matched her “strong female protagonist” character setting.

However, due to the complexity of these eyebrow shapes, they are bound to add a visual burden to the face. So, this kind of eyebrow shape is not suitable for soft – featured faces or overly elaborate looks. It is most suitable for adding a touch in simple looks, which is just right.

In the drama The Palm, both the characters played by Chen Jin and Xu Jiao have the demeanor of an empress. So, the roles mainly showcase the dominance of a strong female protagonist. Chen Jin mostly wears round – collared robes, and Xu Jiao often sports the capable outfits of a female official. Therefore, matching such eyebrow shapes can better reflect the confidence of the characters. It has to be said that even with the same outfit in the later stage, an eyebrow shape can reveal a character’s ambition and the charm of a person in power.

Summary

In the magnificent tapestry of the Wu Zhou era, the upward – slanting eyebrows were like the first rays of dawn, cutting through the sky with resolute sharpness. The tips of the eyebrows, lifted high, were just like the long – suppressed desires of women finally breaking through the shackles of social conventions. Each upward – curving arc was a mark of their ambition, demonstrating their unwillingness to remain in the shadows any longer. Women used these eyebrow shapes as a banner, flaunting their true selves. Whether in the imperial court or on the bustling streets, they showed determination and a sense of responsibility that rivaled that of men. Under the Wu Zhou sky, the powerful and vibrant rise of female strength could be felt everywhere.

So, if you want to show more of the “aura of a strong female protagonist” in your makeup, we can definitely “borrow aesthetics” from the ancients. In daily life, if you want to create a different and magnificent makeup look, you can try to “put some effort” into your eyebrows. It might be a good idea to raise the ends of your eyebrows appropriately, and you may get unexpected results.