This hairstyle appears in both “The Palm” and “Flourished Peony“, and Zhang Yuxi‘s hairstyle seems quite different from those of other people. Is it really a hairstyle from the Tang Dynasty?

Ⅰ. Hairstyle Features

This kind of hair bun is called the “Fanwan Bun” (反绾髻, Reverse Coiled Bun), which was a popular hairstyle in the early Tang Dynasty. Its most prominent feature is that wisp of hair that curves around the forehead. It is formed by coiling the hair from the back of the head to the front of the forehead, so it is aptly named “Fanwan Bun” according to its name. During the Wude (武德) period of Emperor Gaozu of the Tang Dynasty, the Banfan Bun (Half-Flipped Bun), the Fanwan Bun were popular in the imperial palace.

In this period, it was one of the common hairstyles for women, which was not only favored in the imperial court but also gradually became popular among the common people. The Tang Dynasty poet Gu Kuang (顾况) mentioned in his poem “Song of the High Pole (《险竿歌》)”: “The girls in Wanling (宛陵) have dexterous hands, standing on a horizontal long pole and moving up and down,… The reverse coiled bun swirls like a whirlwind.” This reflects the practicality and beauty of the Fanwan Bun. That is, when the performers are turning up and down, the hair can be firmly fastened and not affected. You know, in ancient times, women’s hair buns usually required complicated combing and winding processes. However, the Fanwan Bun just simplifies these lengthy procedures, making it easier for women to move around. Whether they are dancing gracefully, performing, doing acrobatics, or engaging in various daily activities, this hairstyle can make women look more lively and agile.  

Ⅱ. Origin of the Name

This kind of hair bun can also be called the “Leyou Fanwan Bun”. “Leyou” is a place name in Chang’an, and its full name is “Leyou Yuan (乐游原)”, which was a renowned scenic spot in Chang’an City. One saying is that it was located in the south of Chang’an City. Due to its beautiful scenery and elevated terrain, when people climbed up there, they could have a panoramic view of the whole city. Therefore, it became a favorite place for the imperial relatives and noble families, as well as scholars and poets. Nowadays, many Hanfu restoration bloggers would wear this hairstyle when going on a spring outing. This hairstyle also reflects the spirit and vitality of the era from the Sui and Tang Dynasties to the early Tang Dynasty.

The hair bun being named after Leyou can reflect its unrestrained and free characteristics, and it was also the most commonly used hairstyle for women during outings at that time. It is similar to how many women nowadays use hairbands to fix their hair when washing their faces to prevent the hair from getting wet. Whether in the scenario of an outing or washing up, whether in ancient times or today, women’s need to fix their hairstyles has remained unchanged throughout history.

There is also a similar hairstyle in “Flourished Peony”. The greatest advantage of this hairstyle is that it can effectively cover the large expanse of the forehead. If you have a high and wide forehead, you can also try to refer to this method to modify your face shape. It seems that those with a high hairline are in luck. This hairstyle can not only conceal sparse hair but also make the face look smaller, which is really great.

Ⅲ. Combing and Braiding Method

First, gather the hair and tie it up at the top of the head towards the back, and then coil it in reverse. Specifically, first comb the hair neatly and gather it at the back of the top of the head, and then tie it tightly with a silk ribbon or a hair tie. Then divide the tied hair into several strands, and coil, wind, and knot them according to different styles. You can use hairpins, hair clips, etc. to fix the hair to ensure that the hair bun is firm and does not come loose.

Summary

The Fanwan Bun not only boasts aesthetic appeal but also has practicality due to its unique design. It is suitable for occasions that require frequent movement or performance, such as acrobatic shows and dances. It can ensure that the hair doesn’t interfere with the performers’ movements, while at the same time showcasing women’s elegance and vitality. Moreover, this kind of hair bun can effectively cover the blank space on the forehead, complementing the delicate and dainty makeup style of the early Tang Dynasty. In that era, women considered it beautiful to have their skin powdered white, paired with rouge on the cheeks, slender eyebrows, and a huadian (decorative pattern) on the forehead, presenting a unique classical beauty.

During the early Tang Dynasty, with social stability and economic prosperity, people pursued innovation and aesthetic beauty in aspects such as clothing and hairstyles. The diverse styles and unique designs of the Fanwan Bun reflected the unique understanding and pursuit of beauty by women at that time, and also demonstrated the diversity and richness of Tang Dynasty culture. Meanwhile, the trend of its popularity from the imperial court to the common folk also reflected the influence of court culture on the general public and the mutual cultural exchange and integration among different social classes.

In the drama “The Palm“, Zhang Yuxi adorned her forehead with a huadian, shaped her eyebrows like willow leaves, and applied rouge on her cheeks, presenting a classical beauty that is different from others. Do you like it?