We’ve seen so many stunningly elaborate Hanfu designs. Have you ever wondered why people mainly wear Hanfu styles from the aristocratic class and rarely opt for commoner – style Hanfu? Besides the fact that aristocratic Hanfu is more gorgeous, commoner – style Hanfu seems rather underwhelming. But what exactly accounts for this? Next, Silkdivas will guide us in exploring this issue.

Also, official uniforms or bestowed garments that could only be worn by those with official positions and meritorious deeds were styles that most commoners couldn’t dare to wear without permission under normal circumstances.

Ⅰ. What Sets Commoner – Style Hanfu Apart from Aristocratic Hanfu

In ancient times, the basic silhouettes of commoner – style Hanfu were largely the same as what we understand as aristocratic Hanfu. In other words, the differences mainly lay in color, fabric, and accessory combinations.

1. Color

During certain dynasties, due to the high cost of dyes and strict regulations on clothing colors, specific colors were designated for aristocratic use. For example, particular shades of yellow and purple were exclusive to them. More commonly, commoners wore clothes in the natural color of the fabric, black, and similar hues.

2. Fabric

Aristocrats favored expensive fabrics like silk brocade, while commoners typically wore cotton or linen.

3. Accessories

The wealthy flaunted accessories made of gold, silver, jade, or precious woods. In contrast, commoners used accessories crafted from ordinary woods.

Although commoners usually wore everyday clothes, they could afford ceremonial attire for weddings and important rituals if they had some savings. So, it’s not that commoners couldn’t wear formal clothes; it’s just a matter of occasion. Why would someone dress up in fancy clothes for an ordinary day? It wasn’t because they were too poor to afford them.

Moreover, commoners aren’t the same as vagrants. Among commoners, there were merchants, craftsmen, and farmers who had no noble status but still had savings. Even regular families could afford one or two pieces of clothing made from luxurious fabrics and a few pieces of jewelry to wear on special occasions. Therefore, even today, as long as the clothing one wears is in line with their financial situation, most people can wear Hanfu. There’s no longer a distinction between aristocratic and commoner styles.

Ⅱ. Differences in Ceremonial Attire

If we have to talk about aristocratic ceremonial attire that clearly sets itself apart from commoner hanfu, such styles are in the minority. For instance, there were strict dress codes in the imperial harem (like the diyi worn by empresses, consorts, and noblewomen, as shown in the picture below). Diyi was made of real silk and kesi fabric, and the patterns of di birds (huachong, in ancient times, it referred to the five – colored pheasant) were presented using the gold – thread coiling and embroidery technique. There were over 300 stitches per inch of the embroidered surface. In ancient times, this was truly a high – end luxury item.

Also, official uniforms or bestowed garments that could only be worn by those with official positions and meritorious deeds were styles that most commoners couldn’t dare to wear without permission under normal circumstances.

Ⅲ. Common Outfit Combinations for Commoners

Among the working class, typical Hanfu styles for men usually consisted of cross – collared tops paired with trousers. Men with a scholarly background wore long robes. For women, the common ensemble was an upper garment matched with a skirt. These outfits are frequently depicted in paintings such as Along the River During the Qingming Festival and Street Scenes in Times of Peace.

The image above is an excerpt from Street Scenes in Times of Peace. The first part shows both male and female figures, while the second part features men in long robes. This painting vividly demonstrates that there were numerous subtle differences in the Hanfu outfits worn by commoners. Have you noticed the small dog on the left side of the second image? It’s a Chinese sighthound. We talked about this breed in our blog post on Tang – dynasty hunting. If you’re interested, click the link to jump directly to that post.

The following image is an excerpt from Along the River During the Qingming Festival. In this picture, we can clearly see the distinction between literati in long hanfu robes and other men. It seems that literati often appeared in groups. Also, in both pictures, they don’t carry anything in their hands. However, most other men usually held items that indicated their occupations. Maybe literati didn’t need to hold anything because their minds were already filled with knowledge.

Ⅳ. Occasions

So, instead of distinguishing between aristocratic and commoner clothing, it’s more important to consider the occasion.

Let’s restate and provide some information about the appropriate occasions for different types of clothing:

① Ceremonial Attire: Worn on important ceremonial occasions.

It’s similar to our modern wedding dresses or suits.

② Semi – formal Attire: Suitable for general formal occasions.

For example, modern formal business suits.

③ Everyday Attire: (Including informal homewear)

This is what people wear in their daily lives.

Summary

Wearing the right Chinese outfit for the right occasion is crucial, whether in the past or today. In fact, the class attributes of Hanfu aren’t as strong nowadays. Hanfu is gradually becoming more popular as a part of mainstream culture. As long as people like a piece of Hanfu, it’s a good one. Whether it’s elaborate or simple, just pair it with a favorite hairstyle and wear it on the appropriate occasion.