In the previous article, we already know the hairstyles of women from the prehistoric period to the Han dynasty. In this blog post, we will continue to explore the evolution of ancient Chinese women’s hairstyles, following the historical timeline. This period marks a transition from division and chaos to a unified empire. What significant changes did women’s hairstyles undergo during this time? How did the hairstyles of women differ from that of girl? In this post, we’ll answer these questions for you.

Ⅰ. The Wei, Jin, and Northern and Southern Dynasties

The Wei, Jin, and Northern and Southern Dynasties period was a time of political fragmentation and constant warfare in China, following the fall of the Han dynasty.

During this period, China was divided, and ethnic conflicts were intense. The coexistence and rivalry of various regimes led to frequent wars. In the midst of this turmoil, people longed for a spiritual refuge to find comfort. The spread of Buddhism fulfilled this need, influencing not only beliefs but also hairstyles. Women’s hairstyles of the time became more flowing and elegant, reflecting a sense of grace and individuality. Popular styles included the Cross Bun (Shizi Ji), the Ling Snake Bun (Lingshe Ji), and the Spiral Bun (Luo Ji), each with its own unique charm.

Cross Bun

The Cross Bun (十字髻) was first seen on the head of a female figurine in a Western Jin tomb. Typically, a topknot was formed on the crown of the head, secured with pins or combs, and the remaining hair was styled into loops on both sides, often reaching the shoulders. During the Wei, Jin, and Northern and Southern Dynasties, women’s makeup and hairstyles reached new extremes, embracing bold and avant-garde styles. The face designs that were popular during the Han dynasty evolved into more exaggerated and daring shapes, with some women even covering their entire cheeks with Huadian.

Spiral Bun

Another hairstyle is the Spiral Bun (螺髻), which is inspired by the Buddha’s hair in Buddhist tradition. The Buddha’s spiral hair is considered a symbol of auspiciousness. This hairstyle involves arranging the hair into a spiral shape, resembling a seashell, giving an elegant and dignified appearance.

Feitian Sideburns

The Feitian Sideburns (飞天鬓) hairstyle involves gathering the hair at the top of the head, dividing it into several sections, and looping them into high, circular shapes. This elegant and towering style was especially popular during the Southern Dynasties.

Ling Snake Bun

The Ling Snake Bun (灵蛇髻) is said to have been invented by Empress Zhen, also known as Empress Wen Zhao. This hairstyle can be braided into a single, double, or multiple strands, then coiled into various circular shapes. Its flexible and twisting design resembles a snake winding gracefully, which is why it was named “Ling Snake.”

Bu Liao Sheng Bun

The Bu Liao Sheng Bun (不聊生髻) is characterized by a mix of circular and strip-like hair arrangements, with hair ends pointing in different directions, creating a deliberately disheveled look. This hairstyle is often seen in depictions of female attendants in tomb murals.

Ⅱ. Sui and Tang Dynasties

During the Sui and Tang dynasties, China was unified, culture flourished, and society became more open. Tang dynasty women confidently showcased their charm, and their hairstyles and hair ornaments were incredibly diverse. They not only inherited styles from previous eras, such as the High Bun, Ling Snake Bun, Cloud Sideburns Bun, and Cicada-Wing Bun, but also embraced thick, voluminous hair and towering buns as ideals of beauty. Many new and elaborate bun styles were also created during this time.

Guan Hair

Guàn Hair (丱发) was a common hairstyle for children and young girls who had not yet reached adulthood during the Sui, Tang, and Five Dynasties periods. Hairstyles for these girls remained relatively simple, often featuring Guàn Hair or low-hanging side buns near the ears. This style was named Guàn because its shape resembled the ancient Chinese character “丱.”

Double-Ring Immortal-Bun

The Double-Ring Immortal-Bun (双环望仙髻) was a famous hairstyle in the Tang dynasty. This elaborate bun was extremely tall, reaching over two feet in height. Styling it was a time-consuming process, often taking around six hours. If a woman didn’t have enough time or sufficient hair, she would prepare a hairpiece in advance and simply attach it when needed. Wearing hairpieces became a widespread trend in the Tang dynasty.

Cloud Sideburns Bun

The Cloud Sideburns Bun (云鬓) was characterized by hair gathered at the top of the head and styled into a cloud-like shape, with accessories adorning the front. This voluminous and elegant hairstyle was especially favored by noblewomen.

Jinghong Bun

The Jinghong Bun (惊鸿髻) was popular from the reign of Empress Wu Zetian to Emperor Zhongzong of the Tang dynasty. Evolving from the high bun style of Emperor Taizong’s era, it resembled the outstretched wings of a soaring swan. This elegant hairstyle has been depicted in both pottery figurines and mural paintings.

Reverse-Coiled Bun

The Reverse-Coiled Bun (反绾髻) was styled by twisting the hair from back to front, creating a graceful and refined look. It was popular among women during the height of the Tang dynasty, embodying an air of elegance and nobility. Its original form can be seen in the mural paintings of the Zhaoling Duanjian Tomb.

Double-Spiral Bun

The Double-Spiral Bun (双螺髻) divides the hair into two sections, which are then coiled and stacked on top of the head, resembling two snail shell, hence the name. The spiral bun originated from the Buddha’s hairstyle, and later was introduced into secular life, evolving into various forms, including the Double-Spiral Bun. This hairstyle became quite popular during the early Tang dynasty, particularly in the Wu Zhou period, and can often be seen in murals, with numerous variations.

Half-Turned Bun

The Half-Turned Bun (半翻髻) is characterized by its towering shape, resembling a cloud. One side is curved at a certain angle, while the top bends slightly forward and downward. The overall look is similar to a large knife, which is why it’s also called the Single-Knife Half-Turned Bun. This hairstyle was commonly worn by those of high status and was often adorned with exquisite decorative hairpieces. You can find this style on display in many Tang dynasty exhibition halls at major museums.

Ⅲ. Song Dynasty

During the Song dynasty, there was a strong emphasis on etiquette and social hierarchy. In the reign of Emperor Taizu Zhao Yin（赵胤）, the scholar Nie Chongyi（聂重义）presented the San Li Tu (Three Rites Chart), which established a dress code based on the Zhou system, dictating that people should wear clothing according to their social status. While Song accessories not as extravagant as those in the Tang dynasty, Song hairstyles were still colorful and varied. The Ji Li (coming-of-age ceremony) was particularly important for young girls, marking the transition from childhood to adulthood with a change in hairstyle to a formal bun. Hairstyles for noblewomen were especially elaborate. The empress of the Song dynasty, for example, wore a dragon and phoenix flower pin crown adorned with tiny pearls forming intricate patterns of dragons, immortals, and floral designs, creating a dazzling effect.

Dragon and Phoenix Flower Pin Crown

Pan Fu Long Bun

A type of bun known as the wrapped bun (包髻) involves covering the hair with silk or cloth, which is tied into various flower-like shapes. This style is both elegant and beautiful. In the murals of the Jin Temple, female attendants can be seen wearing wrapped buns made from orange-yellow, blue, or red cloth, adorned with golden floral hairpins. Another style, called the Panfu Long Bun (盘福龙髻), was popular during the Northern Song dynasty. This bun is shaped like large, flat ears and was designed to be comfortable for sleeping. The mural below comes from a Song dynasty tomb excavation in Dengfeng, Henan province.

Chaotian Bun

The Chaotian Bun (朝天髻) was one of the most distinctive and popular high buns worn by women during the Song dynasty, especially in the Southern Song period, where it became a trendy hairstyle that many women eagerly copied. To create this style, the hair was first gathered at the top of the head and formed into two cylindrical buns. These buns were then flipped forward and angled toward the forehead. To enhance the height of the front of the bun, women often added decorative hairpins, beads, or even fresh flowers beneath the buns.

Double-Coiled Bun

The Double-Coiled Bun (双蟠髻), resembles a flattened topknot tied with colorful ribbons. This hairstyle has both regal and elegantly fluid, exuding a free-spirited and graceful aura.

Summary

Chinese culture has endured through thousands of years, and the allure of classical hairstyle traditions still shines brightly today. Each hairstyle carries the imprint of its era and the passing down of cultural heritage. They are not only symbols of beauty, but also representations of history and identity. Today, an increasing number of Hanfu enthusiasts are reexamining and reviving ancient beauty practices, striving to recapture the charm of ancient aesthetics in modern life.

In the next blog, we will continue to explore the hairstyle trends from the Liao, Jin, Yuan, and Ming dynasties, tracing how women’s hairstyles evolved with shifts in political landscapes, social class distinctions, and cultural exchanges, showcasing a rich diversity of aesthetics and styles. Stay tuned for the next installment as we delve into a new chapter of ancient Chinese hairstyle culture.