About Hanfu

Hanfu is the traditional clothing of ancient China, and it was the dominant style of dress for many centuries. Although the term “Hanfu” is derived from the Han Dynasty, the style itself originated long before, with roots tracing back to Emperor Huangdi’s time. Hanfu remained the mainstream fashion until the Qing Dynasty. Despite undergoing various changes over the centuries, its distinctive features—such as the crossed collar and right-side fastening, with a top garment and skirt or trousers—have remained consistent. Thus, Hanfu is considered the traditional attire of ancient China, not just a representation of the Han Dynasty.

The 2024 Spring Festival Gala’s performance “年锦 (Nian Jin)” amazed audiences with its display of Eastern aesthetics. The 93-year-old Dunhuang art and design expert, Mr. Chang Shana (常沙娜), served as the pattern advisor, and Hanfu expert Chen Shiyu (陈诗宇) acted as the consultant. The team spent six months selecting 20 patterns from hundreds of traditional designs, showcasing Hanfu from four distinct dynasties: Han, Tang, Song, and Ming. The performance also featured 16 different traditional Hanfu styles. Stars like Liu Tao, Liu Shishi, Li Qin, and Guan Xiaotong wore Hanfu representing the Han, Tang, Song, and Ming dynasties, respectively. Now, let’s take a closer look at the aesthetic features of the outfits they wore!

Ⅰ. Han-style Hanfu

Liu Tao portrayed an Eastern Han outfit inspired by historical artifacts such as Gu Kaizhi’s *”Portraits of Women of Benevolence and Wisdom (顾恺之,《列女仁智图》)”*. The outfit primarily features traditional Chinese yellow, symbolizing solemnity and hope, while showcasing warmth and inclusiveness. The garment is adorned with cornel patterns and cloud motifs, and is paired with a sash-tail silk garment and a high bun hairstyle, reflecting the graceful elegance of Eastern Han women. The hair accessory, a restored version of the Eastern Han golden hairpin, gives a noble yet lively impression.

The clothing is fully embroidered, with the edges decorated with brocade patterns of clouds and cornel motifs, among others.

Patterns showcased in the performance:

• Han Dynasty: Scroll Grass Pattern (Symbolizing health and well-being)
• Han Dynasty: Cup-patterned Grounded Period Embroidery (Symbolizing trust and arrival)
• Han Dynasty: Chang Le Ming Guang Cloud-Rising Auspicious Beast Pattern (Symbolizing eternal continuity)
• Han Dynasty: Cornel Pattern (Symbolizing happiness, longevity, and peace)
• Han Dynasty: Tassel Cloud Pattern (Symbolizing progress and success)
• Han Dynasty: Three-legged Golden Bird Pattern (Symbolizing bright hope)
• Han Dynasty: Jade Rabbit and Laurel Pattern (Symbolizing unity and harmony)

II. Tang-style Hanfu

Liu Shishi’s look was inspired by the donor figures from Cave 9 of the Mogao Caves, who were dressed in ceremonial attire worn by noblewomen of the Tang Dynasty. This outfit consists of a floral hairpin crown, wide-sleeved brocade top, a long painted brocade skirt.

The primary color of the outfit is Chinese red. The borders are decorated with phoenix motifs, and the main garment features patterns such as scroll grass, lions, and circular flowers. The head is adorned with intricate hairpins and inserted combs, and the hairstyle is the typical Tang Dynasty “丛髻” (a high, piled-up bun). Additionally, Liu Shishi’s forehead is decorated with a floral ornament. The two pairs of flower hairpins worn by Liu Shishi are based on Tang Dynasty originals from the National Museum and the Shaanxi History Museum. By the middle and late Tang period, hairpins and accessories became more extravagant, with a style where a circle of flower hairpins would be placed around the “云髻” (cloud-shaped bun).

The outfit is adorned with luxurious fabrics, featuring intricate patterns such as the wild goose and lion motifs, showcasing its opulence and complexity.

Patterns showcased in the performance:

• Tang Dynasty: Peacock with Ribbon Motif (Symbolizing elegance and wealth)
• Tang Dynasty: Winged Auspicious Lion Motif (Symbolizing bravery and good omen)
• Tang Dynasty: Fish Motif (Symbolizing prosperity and good fortune)
• Tang Dynasty: Soaring Phoenix Motif (Symbolizing peace and auspiciousness)
• Tang Dynasty: Four Lions with Precious Flowers Motif (Symbolizing courage and fearlessness)
• Tang Dynasty: Circle of Birds Motif (Symbolizing riding the wind and traveling far)
• Tang Dynasty: Precious Flowers and Standing Phoenix Motif (Symbolizing prosperity and flourishing)

III. Song-style Hanfu

Li Qin wears a Song-style Hanfu—a beizi (褙子). In the Song Dynasty, women often paired a strapless top with a skirt, and layered it with a beizi, which is characterized by side slits under the arms and a straight collar with a matching front closure.

Li Qin’s outfit is primarily in a soft lotus pink color, with embroidered floral patterns along the edges. The garment also features decorative motifs like peony, begonia, and lotus flowers, symbolizing wealth, good fortune, and auspiciousness. Her hairstyle is a simple, bound-up style, complemented by a golden crown. The overall color scheme of the outfit is elegant and refined. For her makeup, Li Qin wears the unique “pearl makeup” of the Song Dynasty, which beautifully highlights the distinctive charm of Song-era beauty.

The outfit features refreshing and delicate colors, with numerous floral patterns such as peonies and begonia, adding to its beauty and elegance.

Patterns showcased in the performance:

• Song Dynasty: Intertwined Peony and Laurel Pattern (Symbolizing rare beauty and grace)
• Song Dynasty: Four Seasons Floral Pattern (Symbolizing happiness and prosperity)
• Song Dynasty: Lotus Pattern (Symbolizing auspiciousness and purity)
• Song Dynasty: Orchid Pattern (Symbolizing elegance and purity)
• Song Dynasty: Peony Pattern (Symbolizing rare beauty and grace)

IV. Ming-style Hanfu

Guan Xiaotong’s outfit is a Ming-style Hanfu—a straight-collared, front-closing jacket paired with a skirt. The primary color scheme is white and light purple, giving it a fresh and elegant feel. The garment is adorned with patterns such as butterflies and “everything goes as planned (万事如意)” motifs, with embroidery outlining the shoulder seams, showcasing the intricate and dignified style of Ming Dynasty clothing. The lower part features a ma mian skirt, decorated with the Ming Dynasty’s “Five Lakes and Four Seas” pattern. The five gourds and four seashells symbolize harmony in all directions. The skirt’s embroidery also includes the “Five Grains Prosperity” pattern with wheat, bees, and palace lanterns, as well as the “Lady Admiring Lanterns” pattern, both of which are festive motifs associated with the New Year.

The outfit features a standing collar, front-closure short jacket, paired with the classic mamian skirt.

Patterns showcased in the performance:

• Ming Dynasty: Great Fortune Gourd Pattern (Symbolizing continuous wealth and blessings)
• Ming Dynasty: Endless Melon Vines Pattern (Symbolizing prosperous and thriving descendants)
• Ming Dynasty: Butterfly Pattern (Symbolizing happiness and a fulfilling life)
• Ming Dynasty: Five Gourds and Four Seas Pattern (Symbolizing lasting wealth and prosperity)
• Ming Dynasty: Gourd Lantern and Lady Admiring Lantern Pattern (Symbolizing an abundant harvest)
• Ming Dynasty: Child Playing with Lantern Pattern (Symbolizing joyful celebration and festive cheer)

Ⅴ. Universally Recognized Aesthetics

The image below shows patterns from the Hanfu worn in the program “Nian Jin” as well as the stage background.

There is so much more we can draw from China’s rich cultural heritage. Traditional Chinese patterns are often referenced and admired by luxury brands worldwide, which shows how much the beauty of Hanfu patterns is loved by people from different regions.

For example, the LV Monogram pattern, made up of four-leaf flowers, four-point stars, diamond-shaped motifs containing four-point stars, and the LV logo, is inspired by the auspicious floral motifs found on a Tang Dynasty zitan wood pipa (a traditional Chinese string instrument). 

Similarly, Givenchy’s logo is derived from the hui pattern (回字纹) found on Shang Dynasty bronze artifacts. The pattern in the upper-left corner is the traditional Chinese hui symbol, and the design below it mirrors the Givenchy logo.

Chinese traditional patterns are not only aesthetic codes and design motifs, but also cultural and philosophical symbols. We hope these cultural treasures continue to be passed down and celebrated. Finally, just as the lyrics from “Nian Jin” say, we wish everything may go as you wish!