The ancient Chinese believed that “the body, hair, and skin are received from one’s parents, and one should not dare to damage or harm them.” Hair, as a part of the body and life, whether abundant or sparse, should be carefully groomed and protected throughout one’s life. China is one of the countries with the richest variety of hairstyles and hair accessories in the world. Our ancestors had a distinct aesthetic for clothing, and similarly, they had preferences when it came to hairstyles. Today, let’s clear away the mist of history and experience the romance of the past, thousands of years ago.

Ⅰ. Primitive Era

In the primitive era when our ancestors played and chased each other in the jungle and on the hills, living off wild fruits to satisfy their hunger, it’s likely they had no clothes or garments. However, once they began walking upright, humans gradually learned to use headpieces to adorn themselves. Due to the lack of written records, it’s difficult to know the precise details. But based on the archaeological findings from Tomb No. 10 at the Dawenkou site, the simple decorations made from stones, jade, and other materials, although not as exquisite as those of later generations, still reflected the sincere desires of our early ancestors. These pieces embodied the mythical imagination of the primitive era, revealing a unique and colorful beauty.

Jade Necklace

Ivory Comb

Ⅱ. Xia, Shang, and Zhou dynasties

During the Xia, Shang, and Zhou dynasties, people began using bronze and jade to create ceremonial vessels and wore silk clothing. Hairstyles also became more diverse, with people using jade, stone, bronze, shells, feathers, and other materials as decorations. This reflects the unique, dignified, and graceful qualities of women in Bronze Age China.

Xia Dynasty

Jade Hairpin

One artifact can be considered a treasure from before or around the early Xia Dynasty. This is a jade hairpin from the Longshan culture, inlaid with turquoise. The semi-transparent white jade is smooth and flawless, with hollowed-out patterns of a divine face, with turquoise stones embedded in the eyes. The lower part of the hairpin features a rectangular concave surface, designed to fit the pin shaft. The overall craftsmanship is exquisite, and it has a history of over 4,000 years.

Shang Dynasty

A Jade Statuette

In the Shang Dynasty, hairstyles and hair accessories are better documented. Several jade statuettes were found in the tomb of Fu Hao, providing valuable references for hairstyles and hair accessories, here’s an example.

In his work Examples of Headpieces in the Yin Dynasty, scholar Mr. Shi Zhangru summarized more than ten types of hairstyle and hair accessories discovered in archaeological findings from the Shang Dynasty. These include various designs such as the zhui fu (a type of topknot), forehead bands, hairpins, double buns, multiple hairpins, jade crowns, and braided stone ornaments. Additionally, the Shang Dynasty had a strong reverence for bird totems.

People’s reverence for bird totems may stem from several reasons: First, in Classic of Poetry, specifically in the Shang Song, it says, “The divine mandate comes from the mysterious bird, which descends to give birth to the Shang,” clearly indicating that the Shang people believed their ancestors were connected to the mystical bird. Second, during the Shang Dynasty, agriculture was the economic backbone, and the migration of migratory birds was closely linked to seasonal changes, providing valuable guidance for farming cycles. Third, the sun, which brings light, heat, and vitality to the earth, was widely worshipped by ancient people. Birds, with their ability to soar high in the sky, were often seen as embodiments of the sun. As beautiful birds form flocks and freely glide through the heavens, one might wonder—do they know they are so highly revered by humans?

There is also a collection of Shang Dynasty bone hairpins at the Royal Ontario Museum in Canada, which features many bird-inspired patterns. The main material used in these hairpins comes from the bones of large animals. These bones are long and slender with thick walls, making them easier to process. During the Shang and Zhou Dynasties, the craftsmanship of these hairpins became more refined, and their decorative elements grew stronger. Hairpins were no longer just tools for securing hair, but became major decorative accessories, symbolizing one’s status and identity. Later, the 簪 (hairpin) evolved as a development of the earlier 笄 (hairpin).

Zhou Dynasty

During the Zhou Dynasty, there was a strong emphasis on rituals, and a well-established system of coronation and clothing. The Book of Rites clearly stated that “a man should wear a crown at the age of twenty, and a woman should wear a hairpin at fifteen,” marking the transition to adulthood. Having loose, unkempt hair was seen as a violation of proper decorum, while tying the hair into a bun became the most proper and widely accepted hairstyle, continuing in China for thousands of years. For example, during the Qing Dynasty, men with loose, untied hair were often seen as criminals, madmen, or individuals with reckless behavior, and were regarded with disdain.

Ⅲ. Qin and Han Dynasty

The Qin and Han periods were times that valued boldness and grandeur. Whether in portraits, stone carvings, gardens, or literary works, there was a pervasive sense of strength and magnificence. Even hairstyles and hair accessories followed this grand style.

Qin Dynasty

Among the many terracotta warriors unearthed from the tomb of the First Emperor of Qin, the soldiers’ hairstyles included round and flat topknots, as well as various wave patterns, spiral shapes, and comb markings. Some even wore stacked, cone-shaped buns. From the men’s hairstyles alone, we can see the distinct beauty of the Qin dynasty’s hairdos.

During the Qin and Han dynasties, the worship of immortals grew significantly, leaving a profound impact on hairstyles and hair accessories. Emperor Qin Shi Huang was particularly interested in immortality practices, and this influence is reflected in the hairstyles of the time, which incorporated immortal themes. In the Han dynasty, the pursuit of longevity and eternal life was widespread, and there was a strong reverence for the Queen Mother of the West, the highest goddess in Daoism. As a result, Han hairstyles were closely tied to depictions of the Queen Mother of the West.

So, what were women’s hairstyles like during the Qin Dynasty? Hairstyles during that period were mostly simple and modest, with the hair tied at the back and secured with a band.

Han Dynasty

The Han dynasty featured a wide variety of hairstyles. In general, they can be categorized into two types: one where the hair hangs down at the back of the head (a hanging bun), and the other where the hair is styled into a high bun on top of the head. The hanging bun, in particular, had several variations, all of which can be seen in the artifacts from Han tombs.

• hanging bun

• high bun

The high bun was often worn by women in the palace, as it requires more effort and resources to maintain compared to a hanging bun. Unlike the hanging bun, the high bun is more complex to manage, requiring both time and energy to keep it in place.

One style of high bun is called the “Flying Immortal Bun” (飞仙髻). This is a tall, towering hairstyle, which can be seen on a brick carving of a noblewoman from the Northern and Southern Dynasties period in Deng County, Henan. To create this style, the hair is gathered at the top of the head, divided into several sections, and twisted into curved loops, all standing upright.

Another style is called the “Concentric Bun” (同心髻). This is a simple, small bun, created to symbolize good wishes and harmony.

Another type of high bun in the Han dynasty is the “Lü Lu Bun” (缕鹿髻). This hairstyle consists of layers stacked like wheels, with the upper layers being smaller and the lower ones larger. A central pillar runs through the bun, which is made up of several stacked circular rings.

Another hairstyle from the Han dynasty is the “Three-Huan Bun” (三鬟髻), which is elegant and graceful. This style became popular and continued to influence later hairstyles, such as the uneven “Cluster Bun” (丛髻) and the “Lotus Bun” (芙蓉髻) that appeared after the Five Dynasties period.

In addition to the Three-Huan Bun, there were also Nine-Huan and Twelve-Huan Buns, all variations of the “Huan Bun” style, where the hair is styled into multiple rings, creating a delicate and charming look, making it a favorite among young women.

As a unified dynasty in Chinese history, the Han Dynasty saw significant development in women’s hairstyles. Women of the Han period often left a strand of hair hanging down from their buns, known as “垂鬓” (drooping sideburns).

Another hairstyle is the “花钗大髻” (flower hairpin high bun). This style is inspired by the wall paintings of the “Tiger Pavilion” tomb from the Eastern Han Dynasty, where figures are depicted with several hairpins inserted horizontally and vertically into a tall bun. This shows the richness and beauty of women’s hair accessories during the Eastern Han period.

Summary

Traveling through the mist of history, from the primitive period to the Qin and Han dynasties, there are so many fascinating and intricate hairstyles that are worth admiring and savoring. Don’t you feel like you’ve only seen a glimpse of it? The next blog will continue to explore ancient Chinese women’s hairstyles, from the Wei-Jin to the Song dynasties. The following blog after that will cover hairstyles from the Liao, Jin, Yuan, to the Republic of China period. Divided into three parts, from prehistory to the Republic, we will guide you through the changes in Chinese hair adornment customs across different historical periods.