Ancient shoes played multiple roles in social and cultural life. They were not only essential for daily use but also reflected social status, cultural customs, and aesthetic values. When people think of shoes, they often consider their protective function for the feet. However, much like other animals, the skin on human feet naturally hardens over time with walking, making it less susceptible to injury from stones on the road. Long before shoes were invented, humans had already existed for millions of years, so shoes were not purely for foot protection. Instead, their primary purposes were more for decoration and adhering to social customs.

Compared to the wide variety of clothing, the decoration of the feet was less emphasized in Chinese culture, but this does not mean there were fewer types of shoes. In ancient China, footwear was generally categorized into two main types: flat shoes and high-heeled shoes.

Ⅰ. Upturned Toe Shoes

Upturned toe shoes (翘头鞋), also known as “high-toe shoes,” are shoes with toes that curl upward. This design is one of the most iconic features of traditional Chinese footwear. Both men’s and women’s shoes in ancient China had upturned toes, with the Qin Dynasty mandating that men wear square-toed shoes and women wear round-toed shoes. This marked the first clear manifestation of gender hierarchy in footwear. By the Qing Dynasty, as Manchu clothing became more prevalent, the popularity of upturned toe shoes gradually declined.

Actually, the origin of upturned toe shoes dates back to ancient times, emerging during the transition from the primitive era to the slave society. In many TV dramas, the wealthy young ladies often wear these shoes. So, why did upturned toe shoes, which were popular for so long in China, gradually fade away?

The decline of these shoes can be traced to the Qing Dynasty when Manchu fashion became more widespread. Manchu women primarily wore horseshoe-shaped shoes, while men typically wore boots. As a result, upturned toe shoes lost their appeal among the upper class. Over time, as Manchu and Han clothing cultures interacted, upturned toe shoes gradually faded into the background, only remaining in some folk traditions. Today, they can mostly be found in museums or historical dramas.

Upturned toe shoes were easy to pair with various outfits and were suitable for more formal occasions such as festivals and weddings. Wealthy families might choose shoes made from luxurious brocade silk, while those with more modest means would use materials like hemp or ramie.

When it comes to pairing upturned toe shoes with Hanfu for everyday wear, their thick soles make them less practical compared to other footwear like square-toe shoes. Although they can be worn with Hanfu, it’s also perfectly fine to pair Hanfu with sneakers. Ultimately, whether or not to wear upturned toe shoes with Hanfu depends on personal preference.

Definition of Upturned Toe:

Here, it’s important to explain what “upturned toe” means. Shoes with an upturned toe typically have the front of the shoe curled upwards. While this feature is not unique to China, it is a distinctive characteristic of traditional Chinese footwear. Both men’s and women’s shoes often had upturned toes. At one point, men wore shoes with square upturned toes, while women wore those with round upturned toes. This design can even be traced back to ancient times, with the “double-pointed toe” design appearing during the Han Dynasty, as seen in the artifacts unearthed from Han tombs.

The significance of the upturned toe goes beyond just being a structural feature that makes the shoe durable, less likely to crack, and more stable to prevent tripping. It also carries symbolic meanings, like aspiring for a successful career or a positive future. Interestingly, the upturned toe even had a defensive purpose. In the past, women of the Miao ethnic group in Guizhou would sometimes hide sharp blades inside the upturned section of their shoes. In the unfortunate event of an attempted sexual assault, these hidden blades could be used as a secret weapon to defend themselves and protect their purity.

Upturned toe shoes come in various styles, and the following three are the most common.

These designs can also be seen in other ancient paintings.

Ⅱ. Zao Boots

Zao boots (皂靴) are typically black shoes with soles that are often in colors like pink or white. In ancient China, Zao boots were also known as “official boots.” The design of these boots varied greatly depending on one’s official rank. Common people were generally not allowed to wear Zao boots.

During the Qing Dynasty, there were clear regulations about who could wear Zao boots. Only nobles, officials, and scholarly gentry with official titles were allowed to wear them on formal occasions. Ordinary citizens and gentry without titles could only wear regular shoes. Common gentry typically wore satin shoes, while ordinary people were limited to simple cloth shoes.

In ancient times, Zao boots were not for everyday wear; they were reserved for formal occasions and had to be paired with appropriate ceremonial attire or official robes. Due to varying temperatures throughout the year, Zao boots were made in both thick and thin soles. As an old saying goes: “In spring, summer, and autumn, shoes made of satin were worn; in winter, those with added lining were preferred. People mourning the loss of a loved one would wear Zao boots made of cloth.”

Ⅲ. Square-Toed Shoes

In ancient times, it was common for men to wear square-toed shoes and women to wear round-toed shoes. “方舃” refers to shoes with square, flat soles, with “舃” being an ancient term for shoes. This style of shoe features four right-angle corners, creating a perfect square shape. Each side is flat and even, giving it the name “square-toed” shoes.

When it comes to pairing with Hanfu, square-toed shoes are simpler and more comfortable compared to other styles like the upturned-toed shoes or cloud-lifting shoes. For those interested, this type of shoe is a good option to try. In modern fashion, there are also shoes with a similar square toe design, such as square-toed leather shoes and Mary Jane shoes.

Ⅳ. Cloud-Lifting Shoes

The name “Cloud-Lifting Shoes” (登云履) comes from Taoist culture, where it is said that wearing these shoes would allow one to ascend to the clouds. Cloud-lifting shoes are quite different from upturned-toed shoes, as their soles are thick, sturdy, and durable, making them suitable for hiking or mountain climbing.

However, it’s important to be cautious when purchasing thick-soled Cloud-Lifting Shoes. If you’re looking to wear them for daily Hanfu outfits, they may not be the best choice. The high soles make them prone to causing ankle sprains, and they’re not as comfortable as modern shoes. That said, they are suitable for performances or exhibitions.

Ⅴ. Chinese Wooden Clogs

Everyone knows that Japan’s traditional attire is the kimono, and their traditional shoes are geta (wooden clogs). However, geta actually originated in China. During the Wei, Jin, and Northern and Southern Dynasties, a period of national upheaval, there was a fusion of northern ethnic clothing cultures with those of the central plains. Among these, wooden clogs became particularly popular and were often worn outdoors. Later, through cultural exchanges during the Sui and Tang Dynasties, the wooden clogs were introduced to Japan.

The difference between Chinese wooden clogs and Japanese geta is actually quite easy to distinguish. For example, the front hole of Chinese wooden clogs is slightly offset to one side, and the front wooden strip is positioned further forward.

In fact, during the Sui and Tang Dynasties, wooden clogs had a more famous name: “Xie Gong Clogs. (谢公屐)” This name was famously mentioned by the renowned Chinese poet Li Bai, who wrote, “Wearing Xie Gong clogs, my body ascends the blue cloud ladder.” In ancient times, people relied on these clogs for travel, as they significantly reduced the strain of mountain climbing, prevented slipping, and made it easier to ascend and descend hills. Later, wooden clogs were mainly used as rain gear, similar to shoe covers, worn over regular footwear to protect against mud and rain.

Ⅵ. Flowerpot shoes

Flowerpot shoes (花盆鞋) were popular during the Qing Dynasty, which was ruled by the Manchu people. The Manchu women favored a type of flag shoe with a high sole. This design not only added height but also kept the feet hidden, preventing the hem of the dress from touching the ground and protecting the shoe soles from getting dirty. Due to their unique beauty and practicality, flowerpot shoes quickly became fashionable in the imperial court and gradually spread to the general public. The soles were carefully crafted from wood and usually wrapped in white cloth. The height of the wooden soles typically ranged from 5 to 14 centimeters, with some reaching up to 25 centimeters. As for decorations, they sometimes featured various embroidery or beads on the wood, and tassels were often woven at the tips of the shoes.

Ⅶ. Bow Shoes

Bow shoes (弓鞋) are one of the most common types of shoes worn with Hanfu. They come in various styles and now often feature prints, subtle patterns, embroidery, and hand-sewn beads or tassels, offering many different choices. The term “bow shoes” originated in the Five Dynasties period, initially referring to shoes with a curved sole and an upward-pointing toe. Over time, however, bow shoes became associated with the practice of foot binding, and the term “bow shoes” came to be synonymous with “bound foot shoes.” Today, morden bow shoes on the market retain the characteristic upward-pointing toe, but they no longer serve the same purpose.

The most distinctive feature of traditional bow shoes is their narrow shape and the curved design. This trend, which encouraged women to embrace a delicate beauty to please men, led generations of women to suffer through the painful practice of foot binding, a custom that lasted for a thousand years. Women’s feet were tightly wrapped in cloth, slowly forcing the bones to bend into a specific shape. Foot size became tied to a woman’s marriage prospects, where having large feet was considered shameful, and small feet were a symbol of honor.

In the Song Dynasty, foot binding aimed to make the feet “slender and straight” but not bent. During the Ming Dynasty, the “phoenix-head shoes” with rounded high heels became popular, still within the three-inch bound foot range. By the Qing Dynasty and into the early Republic of China, shoe toes became even narrower, and feet were bound even smaller, with the smallest shoes measuring just 9 cm in length.

Foot binding became a central aspect of women’s daily life during the Qing Dynasty, with small feet being a key standard for measuring a woman’s worth. Women who did not bind their feet faced severe social discrimination, and some would secretly bind their feet to avoid this stigma. It wasn’t until the spread of equal rights ideas in the Republic of China that foot binding began to fade. A popular saying goes, “One pair of bound feet, a whole jar of tears,” highlighting the immense pain and suffering women endured from this practice.

Summary

In ancient China, shoes played a very important role, and their names and styles reflected the different understandings of beauty at the time. There is an old Chinese saying, “A journey of a thousand miles begins with a single step,” meaning that even the greatest goals must start with small tasks. Shoes help us walk thousands of miles, never complaining about how tired they are. Let’s be thankful for our shoes.