The term “脂泽粉黛” (makeup) , referring to makeup, first appeared in Han Feizi’s “On the Art of Learning  (《韩非子· 显学篇》)” over 2200 years ago, indicating that “cosmetic products” were already in use. During the Eastern Zhou period, especially the Spring and Autumn and Warring States periods, makeup began to gradually gain popularity among common women. Evidence of powder application, eyebrow shaping, and the use of rouge can be seen in the clay figurines from the Warring States period of Chu.

By the Tang Dynasty, women’s social status had risen, and influences from various ethnic minorities made the societal rules more relaxed, leading to fewer restrictions on women. As a result, a wide variety of makeup styles developed. This included diverse eyebrow shapes, lip styles, different hairdos, cheeks in varying shades, and a range of makeup designs such as beauty marks, forehead yellow powder, and decorative floral designs, making female makeup during this period rich and varied.

Now, let’s take out our small mirrors and cosmetics to start learning how to apply Tang-style makeup with our makeup artists!

Ⅰ. Lead Powder Application

Applying lead powder was similar to using foundation. Lead powder, also known as “white powder,” actually contains various chemical elements like lead, tin, aluminum, and zinc. Originally, the lead powder used by women wasn’t processed to remove moisture, so it was more of a paste. After the Han Dynasty, lead powder was dried and made into a powder or solid form. It became popular because of its fine texture, smooth white color, and ease of storage, which made it a favorite among women.

During the Tang Dynasty, women’s clothing often exposed their skin, and to achieve an overall fair complexion, they frequently applied powder to exposed areas of their skin.

Ⅱ. Rouge Application

Applying rouge was similar to today’s use of blush. In the Tang Dynasty, the popular makeup style involved applying white powder first and then rouge. This created a trend for heavier makeup. The purpose of applying rouge was much like modern women applying blush to their cheeks. By the Tang Dynasty, the types of rouge available had developed significantly, varying in color depth and coverage. Some women applied a thick layer, creating a bright and vibrant look, while others used a lighter touch for a more elegant, subtle effect. Rouge was sometimes applied to just the cheeks, sometimes covering nearly the entire face, and occasionally blended around the eyebrows and eyes, creating a wide variety of eye-catching and unique looks.

Ⅲ. Drawing Eyebrows

The art of eyebrow drawing reached its peak during the Tang Dynasty, with a wide variety of eyebrow shapes emerging, each more extravagant and distinctive than the last. According to Tang dynasty paintings and archaeological findings, there were as many as fifteen or sixteen different eyebrow styles, or perhaps even more, that were popular during this time. The materials used for drawing eyebrows were primarily indigo and soot, with the goal of making them as dark and bold as possible. The Tang women broke free from the traditional aesthetic of slender willow-leaf-shaped eyebrows and created many exaggerated shapes, including long, short, moth-shaped, bean-shaped, wide, short-wide, and straight eyebrows, all of which alternated in popularity.
 

Ⅳ. Applying Flower Dots

This form of makeup, also known as “花子,” “面花,” or “贴花,” involved placing small decorative embellishments on the forehead and face, particularly between the eyebrows. These flower dots were made from various materials, including gold foil, colored paper, fish gills, fish scales, mica, mother-of-pearl, and even tea oil flower designs.

The adhesive used to attach these decorations was a special kind of “heat-sensitive glue.” Once exposed to breath, the glue would become sticky, making it strong enough to attach things like arrow feathers. Women would simply blow on the adhesive, apply a small amount of saliva, and it would stick. To remove the decorations, they would apply hot water, which would easily dissolve the glue, allowing them to peel the flower dots off. This method was as convenient as modern-day adhesive stickers, but with much stronger adhesion.

Ⅴ. Dot and Face Dots (面靥)

Before the peak of the Tang Dynasty, women typically wore two small round dots on their cheeks, about the size of yellow beans. However, during the Tang Dynasty, the range and variety of these decorative dots expanded significantly. Some took the shape of coins and were called “money dots” (钱点); others resembled apricots or peaches, known as “apricot dots” (杏靥). There were also floral patterns surrounding the original dot, called “flower dots” (花靥), and even designs shaped like small birds or fish. These dots weren’t always placed at the corners of the mouth but were also sometimes painted on either side of the nose, slightly higher than their original position.

Ⅵ. Drawing “Slanting Red” (斜红)

“Slanting Red” (斜红) was a makeup technique applied to the cheeks of women during the Tang Dynasty. Female figurines excavated from Tang tombs often show two crescent-shaped red marks on their faces, a vivid and bold makeup style that looks unusual and striking. Some of these marks were intentionally depicted as broken, giving the appearance of scars. This makeup was known as “slanting red.” Typically, the slanting red was painted around the temples, and its design could be simple, resembling a crescent moon, or more complex, appearing as scars. To enhance the effect of brokenness, sometimes the lower part of the marks was smudged with rouge to resemble bloodstains.

Ⅶ. Applying Lip Balm

Before the Qin Dynasty and up until the Tang Dynasty, lip balm was usually stored in small containers and had a thick, sticky consistency. Women would dip a small amount of it to apply to their lips. It wasn’t until the Tang Dynasty that a lip product resembling modern stick lipstick started to emerge. In the late Tang Dynasty, the book Yingying’s Biography (《莺莺传》) mentions a gift of lip balm: “Along with a box of exquisite flowers, a five-inch lip balm was given, which brightens the beauty of the face.” This description of a “five-inch lip balm” clearly refers to a solid stick form of lip balm, similar to what we use today.

After completing these steps, let’s now witness the transformation!

After seeing how women in the Tang Dynasty did their makeup, are you eager to give it a try? While Tang Dynasty makeup differs greatly from today’s fashion trends, the pursuit of beauty has never stopped. We look forward to seeing your makeup results!