In the previous post, we talked about the popular female accessory, the Pibo. In this blog entry, Silk Divas will discuss what the Banbi was, a type of clothing that was trendy in the Tang Dynasty.

I. What is Banbi

The Banbi is similar to today’s short – sleeved shirt. It’s called “Banbi” (It’s not the deer Bambi) because the length of its sleeves is between that of a sleeveless jacket (裲裆) and a regular shirt. In the wardrobes of Tang – Dynasty girls, such a fashionable item was a must – have. In the Tang Dynasty, the “Banbi (半臂)” was also known as “Banxiu (半袖)”. It was a kind of short – sleeved upper garment in ancient China, which evolved from the half – sleeve clothing of the Han and Wei dynasties. In “The Old Book of Tang“, there is a mention of “Banxiu Qun Ru” (half – sleeve Ruqun). Influenced by “non – Han ethnic cultures”, the Banbi became a popular and modern – looking outfit during the Sui and Tang dynasties. It was characterized by a length reaching the waist and sleeves that didn’t cover the elbows, making it very convenient for daily activities. You can think of the Banbi as similar to the T – shirts we wear in summer.

II. Ways to Wear the Banbi

The ancients usually had three ways of wearing the Banbi: “wearing it inside”, “wearing it outside”, and “exposing one – arm style”. In the “exposing one – arm style”, one side of the outer garment was unfastened, and the sleeve along with the lifted hem was tied around the waist, revealing the Banbi in the middle layer, with a narrow – long – sleeved shirt worn inside.

The terracotta figures in the picture are wearing the Banbi inside, putting the Banbi under the robe. They push up the sleeves of the outer robe, creating a wide – shoulder effect similar to that of a double – door refrigerator. 👀

Ⅲ.The Development of Tang – Dynasty Banbi

1. Emergence in the Han and Wei Dynasties

The Banbi first emerged during the Han and Wei dynasties. It was a short – sleeved upper garment designed for summer in ancient China. Due to its convenience for the daily life and labor of the working people, it became widely popular among the common folks. The earliest cultural relics that can be identified as short – sleeved clothing were first seen in the murals of the Mawangdui Han Tomb.

2. Popularity in the Sui and Tang Dynasties

Influenced by the cultures of non – Han ethnic groups, the Banbi became a fashionable outfit for women during the Sui and Tang dynasties. The Tang – Dynasty Banbi had short and narrow sleeves, which could effectively showcase the feminine curves. During the reign of Empress Wu Zetian, the front – buttoned style became more prevalent. The Banbi frequently appeared in cultural relics such as murals and figurines from the Sui and Tang dynasties, evidencing its high popularity at that time.

3. Re – emergence in the Song and Yuan Dynasties

In the Song Dynasty, the Banbi remained a fashionable choice, but it was no longer part of the regular formal attire. People of all ages and genders could wear it in their leisure time. An interesting phenomenon during this period was the prevalence of the Beizi, which evolved from the Banbi. Everyone, from the emperor and nobles to ordinary people, would wear it.

4. Integration in the Yuan and Ming Dynasties

During the Yuan Dynasty, women were fond of wearing the Banbi, which came in two types: cotton – filled and lined, thus also known as the half – sleeve jacket. However, its cut was not as narrow as the “half – sleeve” shirts of the Sui and Tang dynasties; instead, it was relatively loose and wide. Additionally, the Bijia (比甲) that emerged in the Yuan Dynasty is generally believed to have evolved from the Banbi. Originally designed for easy horseback riding and archery, the Bijia was increasingly adopted by the Han people, especially favored by women.

Ⅳ. The Design of Banbi

• Ancient:

• Modern:

• Mix and Match: