In the previous article, we mentioned that Chang’an, the capital of the Tang Dynasty, was a renowned international metropolis at that time. Cultures from various countries collided and merged here, and the people of the Tang Dynasty incorporated various foreign elements into their traditional clothing. This kind of innovation was similar to today’s brand collaborations. The Pibo is one of the products born out of this cultural integration.

I. What is Pibo

It can be said that the Pibo was a popular accessory among women in the Tang and Song dynasties. In the Tang Dynasty, it was called “帔子” or “领巾”, and after the Song Dynasty, it was known as “Pibo“. It is a long, light – weight and soft ribbon – like scarf. First, it is draped over the neck and shoulders, then casually wrapped around the chest and arms, and finally hangs down beside the body. During the Tang and Song dynasties, the Pibo was a commonly used accessory for women. It came in a variety of colors and patterns, mainly made of thin silk and gauze. The two ends fluttered with the wind, creating a light and elegant effect for decorative purposes. Although the Pibo is just a simple piece of cloth, there are various ways to wear it. Some people drape it over the back, some over the chest, some tuck it into the skirt, and some tie it behind.

II. Ways to Wear Pibo

 1. Double – sided Front – hanging on Arms

The Pibo can be casually worn by wrapping it around the shoulders and back and then draping it over the arms. This was the most common way to wear it in the early Tang Dynasty.

2. Double – sided Rear – hanging on Shoulders
Bend the Pibo in front of the body, and let both ends hang down behind the body.

3. Double – sided Front – wrapped and Rear – hanging on Arms

4. Double – sided Front – wrapped and Front – hanging on Arms

5. Single – sided Front – hanging on Arm
Let both ends hang on the left – hand side. One end hangs between the arm and the body, while the other end goes around the shoulder and back, then turns in front of the body and drapes over the left arm.

6. Single – sided Rear – wrapped and Front – hanging on Arm

7. Double – sided Rear – crossed and Tied

Ⅲ. Long and Short Pibo

• Short Pibo: When the two equal – length ends of the Pibo are placed over the neck and shoulders, in an upright posture, if the trailing ends of the Pibo hang below the hips but above the knees, it is a short – type Pibo. This was commonly donned by common women or palace maids during their daily chores.
• Long Pibo: If the trailing ends of the Pibo hang below the knees but above the insteps, it is a long – type Pibo. Noblewomen typically wore this kind. Moreover, dancers and musicians usually had longer Pibo.

IV. The Origin of Pibo

Some scholars have pointed out that among the national costumes of countries neighboring China at that time, only Persia and some small countries near Persia used the Pibo. The images of Persian women wearing Pibo can be seen in the patterns of Sasanian Persian gold and silver wares collected in museums in Europe, America, Iran, and other places. Perhaps this custom originated from the more distant ancient Greek and Roman civilizations. Or it might have been introduced to the Central Plains along with the eastward spread of Buddhism. The image of this accessory can be traced back to the clothing of deities in the Hellenistic period of West Asia as early as the BC era. Moving eastward, it became the fluttering clothing decoration on celestial beings in Buddhist art. After being introduced to the Central Plains during the Southern and Northern Dynasties along with Buddhism, it gradually integrated into secular clothing.

V. Functions of Pibo

• Decoration: The Pibo can enhance the aesthetics of clothing. It makes the wearer appear more elegant and noble. Its fluttering and wrinkling add a sense of movement and a romantic atmosphere to the overall look.
• Status Indication: In the Tang Dynasty, it was stipulated that the twenty – seven female officials in the palace, as well as Baolin (宝林), Yunü (御女), and Liangren (良人), had to wear Pibo embroidered with patterns when attending to the emperor or participating in palace banquets.

Summary

The Pibo can exude a heroic charm like the women in *The Spring Outing of the Guo State Lady*, or present a natural and casual look like the ladies in *Ladies with Head – adornments*. We can freely change the way we drape it. Whether it’s the passionate red, vivid yellow, elegant purple, or fresh green, beauty is the most important thing.