After discussing the trendy outfits of handsome men in the Tang Dynasty, let’s now turn to the styling guide for the ever – changing and fashionable women of that era. The Tang Dynasty in China was a period of great unity. If we were to measure a country’s overall strength by GDP, the Tang Dynasty is estimated to have reached a scale of $38.4 billion, accounting for 58% of the world’s GDP. This is a truly remarkable figure. At that time, the Americas had not yet been discovered by Europeans, and Europe was in the Dark Middle Ages, with dilapidated cities and barren fields. Only in China was there a prosperous and thriving scene. The Tang Empire boasted not only the world’s greatest material wealth but also the most splendid and glorious spiritual treasures. Poetry, music, dance, calligraphy, painting, sculpture, architecture, and gardens were undoubtedly at the highest level in the world at that time.

Undoubtedly, the social status and personal liberation of Tang Dynasty women are also topics worthy of exploration. Women in that era were free – spirited and unrestrained. This can be seen in various aspects such as marriage, clothing, and social concepts. The Tang Dynasty society was relatively friendly towards women. It was quite common for women to dress as men. In ancient times, feudal etiquette was extremely strict. “The Rules for Inner Chambers in The Book of Rites”（《礼记内则》） once stipulated that men’s and women’s clothes should not be worn interchangeably. However, women in the Tang Dynasty didn’t pay much attention to this rule. As can be seen in TV dramas, many women dressed as men during the Tang Dynasty.

Now, let’s first talk about one of the clothing items worn by Tang Dynasty women – the Ruqun.

I. The Basic Structure of Ruqun

During the Southern and Northern Dynasties, the ru (a short – bodied garment) and qun (a skirt) had already become the two main components of women’s clothing. By the Tang Dynasty, it evolved into three elements: the 衫 (top), the 裙 (skirt), and the 帔 (a long silk shawl). Tang Dynasty women favored wearing a short ru on the upper body and a long qun on the lower body. They would raise the waist of the qun extremely high, up to the armpit, and fasten it with a silk ribbon. The colors of the qun were diverse, among which the pomegranate – red skirt remained popular for the longest time.

The necklines of the ruqun were often quite variable, including round – neck, square – neck, slanted – neck, straight – neck, and heart – shaped neck, etc. During the heyday of the Tang Dynasty, the open – neck style was also quite common, showing a rather bold sense of dressing. The women’s upper garments in the Tang Dynasty were generally short, with a narrow body and sleeves that clung closely to the body, presenting a dainty and charming look. The lower qun was wide and long, with the fashion being to have the hem of the qun trailing on the ground. To make the qun appear even more elegant and long, Tang Dynasty women usually tied the waist of the qun high above the waist, and some even raised it up to the armpit, covering half of the chest.

There is a poem that testifies to the bold dressing style of Tang Dynasty women:

Encountering a Neighboring Girl (逢邻女)

By Zhou Pen (周濆)

At high noon, a neighboring girl and I meet, smiling.

She casually ties her silk skirt, half – revealing her chest.

Don’t look at the clear green water in the autumn pond,

For your beauty would outshine the uneven white hibiscus.

It can be seen that the girls at that time were confident, generous, and their elegance and beauty were obvious to all. Moreover, in an era of diverse cultural integration, the girls were never stingy about showing off their beauty.

II. Types of Ruqun

1. High – waisted Ruqun

During the Sui, Tang, and Five Dynasties period, the high – waisted ruqun emerged. Interestingly, this style was unique to the women’s clothing of this era. Neither in previous dynasties nor later ones did such a style regain popularity. Although the high – waisted ruqun bears a resemblance to the chest – high ruqun, the high – waisted ruqun is a double – layer garment, while the chest – high ruqun is single – layer.

2. Chest – high Ruqun

In the Tang Dynasty, plumpness was regarded as the standard of beauty for women. Thus, the chest – high ruqun consisted only of a single – layer ru without an interlining, being light and thin. Sun Ji, a scholar, once wrote in the book Essays on Ancient Chinese Carriages and Clothing (孙机,《中国古舆服论丛》): “More often than not, the more noble a woman was, the more likely she was to wear a top that exposed her chest.” This view represents the common dressing trend among noblewomen in the Tang Dynasty. For example, among the clothing of Tang Dynasty noblewomen, a type of shirt – skirt was quite popular. The way to wear this style was to tie the skirt belt high above the waistline. Chang’an, the capital of the Tang Dynasty, was a renowned international metropolis at that time. Cultures from various countries collided and merged here, and the Tang people would incorporate various foreign elements into traditional clothing. This kind of innovation was similar to the brand

3. Cross – collar Ruqun

The cross – collar ruqun was more popular in the Song Dynasty. Its characteristic is that the upper ru has a cross – collar. However, if classified by style, it can be divided into four distinct styles: Tang – style cross – collar ruqun, Song – style cross – collar ruqun, and Ming – style cross – collar ruqun. At the same time, the cross – collar ruqun also comes in men’s and women’s styles.

4. Straight – collar Ruqun

The most significant difference between the straight – collar ruqun and the cross – collar ruqun is that the upper ru of the former has a straight collar, also known as a front – buttoned ruqun. The front of the garment is symmetrical. Due to its symmetrical design, which embodies the traditional Chinese aesthetic of symmetry, the straight – collar ruqun is not only beautiful but also gives a lively and charming look when worn. Therefore, it was deeply loved by the ancients.

III. Class Differences and Sino – Foreign Integration of Ruqun

There were distinct differences in the styles and materials of ruqun among women of different social classes. Women from the upper classes usually opted for luxurious silk and delicate embroidery to showcase their noble status. In contrast, common women mostly chose simple cotton and linen fabrics, emphasizing practicality.

The Tang Dynasty was a period of extremely frequent foreign exchanges in Chinese history. The country’s prosperity and openness led to a large influx of foreign cultures, which also influenced the design and wearing of ruqun. At this time, many foreign elements were incorporated into the making of ruqun, such as exotic patterns and colors, making this traditional clothing even more diverse and colorful.

As an important medium for cultural exchanges between China and foreign countries, ruqun demonstrated different ethnic groups’ understanding and pursuit of beauty. This integration was reflected not only in the fabrics and decorations but also in the design concepts and aesthetic trends. The mutual influence of Chinese and foreign cultures gradually led to the formation of diverse styles of ruqun. It not only maintained the traditional beauty but also presented a new sense of the times. Therefore, ruqun is not only a symbol of women’s clothing but also a vivid manifestation of cultural integration, demonstrating the inclusiveness and diversity of Chinese culture.

Summary

In conclusion, as an important representative of traditional Chinese clothing, ruqun not only symbolizes the femininity and status of women but also bears profound significance of cultural integration. Throughout the long history, it still shines with a unique luster. Silk Diva hopes that women around the world who love Hanfu can experience the freedom and free – spirited and romantic of ruqun.