Military clothing had matured during the Qin and Han dynasties. After being refined by the continuous wars in the Wei, Jin, Southern and Northern dynasties, it became even more complete in the Tang Dynasty.

Take armor as an example. The Tang Liudian (《唐六典》, Institutes of the Tang Dynasty) records as follows: “There are thirteen types of armor. The first is the Mingguang armor (明光甲), the second is the Guangyao armor (光要甲), the third is the Xilin armor (细鳞甲), the fourth is the Shanwen armor (山文甲), the fifth is the Wuzhui armor (乌锤甲), the sixth is the Baibu armor (白布甲), the seventh is the Zaojuan armor (皂绢甲), the eighth is the Bubei armor (布背甲), the ninth is the infantry armor (步兵甲), the tenth is the leather armor (皮甲), the eleventh is the wooden armor (木甲), the twelfth is the chain – mail armor (锁子甲), and the thirteenth is the horse armor (马甲).”

I. Robes

The military uniforms of the Tang Dynasty, in terms of both style and craftsmanship, demonstrated the superb craftsmanship and strict regulations of the era. On the robes of generals, fierce lion and tiger patterns were embroidered, symbolizing the bravery and might of Tang Dynasty soldiers. Moreover, there were as many as thirteen types of armor in the Tang Dynasty. Ranging from different styles like fine – scale, mountain – pattern, and chain – mail, to various materials such as metal, leather, and silk, they all showcased the advanced military technology of the Tang Dynasty.

II. Armors

1. Mingguang Armor (明光甲)

During the early Tang Dynasty, armors and military uniforms retained the styles and forms from the Northern and Southern Dynasties to the Sui Dynasty. However, as time went by, the trend of luxury among the upper – class groups in the Tang Dynasty gradually prevailed. As a result, military uniforms and armors began to change, gradually evolving into ceremonial costumes mainly for decoration. After the An Lushan Rebellion, armors returned to a state of practical use in battles, achieving a balance between practicality and aesthetics.

Renowned for its striking aesthetic and craftsmanship, the Mingguang armor epitomized both artistry and practicality in ancient Chinese warfare. Its defining feature—two polished elliptical chest plates resembling “mirror-like discs”—served not only as formidable protection but also as psychological warfare. When sunlight struck these gleaming surfaces, they reflected an almost divine radiance, intimidating enemies with an illusion of celestial shielding.

Crafted from overlapping metal scales meticulously burnished to a mirror finish, this armor prioritized both durability and visual grandeur. Additional reinforced plating around the abdomen further enhanced its defensive capabilities, making it a lifesaver on the battlefield.

Regarded as the “Rolls-Royce of Tang armor”, the Mingguang held unrivaled status among military elites. Institutes of the Tang Dynasty —a Tang administrative code documenting 13 armor types—cemented its reputation as the most prestigious design of its era. Beyond physical defense, its brilliance symbolized imperial power, unifying functional engineering with symbolic might to awe foes and inspire allies.

• Characteristics of the Armor Plates:

The armor plates of the Mingguang Armor are polished to a high sheen, making them extremely lustrous.

• Structural Composition:

The breastplate of this armor is divided into two parts, left and right. A vertical strap runs down the middle to fasten the two pieces together. In the center of each part of the breastplate, there is a circular, convex protector, which is curved in shape.

• Overall Structure:

Generally, it comes with a neck guard, ear guards, pauldron (for shoulder protection), thigh guards (to protect the thighs), and greaves (to protect the calves).

2. Chain Mail (锁子甲)

Chain mail is a type of metal armor used in ancient warfare. Around the 5th century BC or even earlier, the Scythians in the northern part of the Black Sea region might have been the first to invent it. Early – stage chain mail was inferior to its later counterparts in terms of both material and performance.

Generally, chain mail is made by interlocking iron wires or rings to form a garment – like structure. Each ring is linked with four other rings, creating a net – like pattern. Different civilizations used various materials to make it. It was introduced to China from the Western Regions and then improved by Chinese armor – making masters at that time. An ordinary arrow couldn’t penetrate this kind of improved chain mail, which was clearly the best – quality chain mail in terms of both material and craftsmanship in China at that time.

Chain mail was also a widely – used armor in the Central Plains region. There are records of its use as early as the Wei and Jin Dynasties, and it became known as “ring – linked armor” during the Tang and Song Dynasties. It was most popular in the Tang Dynasty and was listed as one of the 13 types of armor in the Tang Dynasty. It was used most extensively in the Tibet region and continued to be used in the Ming and Qing Dynasties. In the mid – to – late Ming Dynasty, the military was equipped with large quantities of chain mail and cotton – padded armor. Another type called Shanwen Armor (山文甲) is also a form of chain mail. The gold and silver chain mail from the Tang Dynasty is now one of the most precious treasures in the National Museum.

Apart from armors, there were other types of military clothing in the Tang Dynasty. For example, there were military uniforms made of various materials and in different styles within the army. These uniforms not only served practical purposes but also had an aesthetic appeal.

Ⅲ. Related Historical Background

In the early Tang Dynasty, the Fubing System (Civilians serve as soldiers during wartime.) was implemented, which was a mechanism integrating civilians and soldiers. One of the characteristics of this military system was that soldiers had to purchase many of their own equipment for military expeditions, as described as “all self – provided”.

Each soldier was required to have a bow, thirty arrows along with an arrow quiver, and a horizontal knife. Besides weapons, they also needed logistical equipment, including a whetstone, a felt hat, a felt suit, and a suitcase. Of course, there was also food: each soldier was supposed to carry nine dou (“斗”, a unit of dry measure) of barley rice and two dou of rice. In addition, there were dressing requirements. Most soldiers in the Tang Dynasty wore Mingguang armor. Cavalrymen also had to equip iron armor on their bodies, legs, and arms, and carry a long spear on their backs.

We don’t know for sure if all the above – mentioned equipment was directly carried on the soldiers’ bodies. If so, it would have been quite heavy. However, according to records, there were pack horses in the army. Usually, all this equipment was stored in the armory of the Zhechongfu (折冲府, a military administrative unit). When a military operation was launched, the equipment would be distributed according to the specific situation.

During the reign of Emperor Yang of the Sui Dynasty, when the army launched an expedition against Korea, due to the long – distance and difficult grain transportation, each front – line soldier had to carry several days’ worth of food on their body, which seriously affected the marching speed and combat effectiveness. As a result, some soldiers buried the food underground at the risk of being executed and going hungry.

Summary

The gorgeousness of Tang Dynasty clothing was influenced by many factors. The continuous improvement in the output and quality of silk fabrics in the Tang Dynasty, along with the significant progress of the silk – weaving industry, provided a solid material foundation for the colorful clothing of that era.

With extensive and friendly exchanges among people of different ethnic groups and the society’s inclusive attitude towards cultures from various countries, the clothing scene in the Tang Dynasty was filled with countless novel styles that led the fashion trends.

Whether it was men’s or women’s clothing, the bright colors complemented each other, creating a magnificent picture of the prosperous Tang Dynasty with its splendid attire.